Just a quick update for progress done yesterday, I had very little time to Blog it and work got in the way today.
The intention of the wiring is not only to wire the MegaSquirt ECU with both the MS3 and MS3X D-Sub 37 pin connectors, but to also remove the current Morris Mini fuse box. Don’t laugh, but it just consists of two 30A fuses for the whole car. I have over many years owned six Minis, and three MG MGBs, and have only ever had one issue over these fuses. Never-the-less the relay box and fuse box I bought over two years ago has enough fuses and relays to service the ECU and the current cars wiring.
A couple of the things that will be put onto a relay is the headlights and the horn. I intend to get an extra Lucas horn to complement the existing one, the Mini because of it’s size needs to be heard!
The next step in a few days time, will to be to mount the ECU as outlined below, and wire up all the relays, the SSR for the fuel pump, and try to make sense of the Lucas wiring.
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- Remove existing MegaSquirt relay board, and existing wiring for EFI sensors.
Day 1 – done.
- Fit EFI fuel filter under the car and connect hoses.
Day 1 – done.
Day 2 – removed and painted the filter housing as it was crappy.
Day 4 – refitted all done.
- Remove standard engine driven fuel pump and fit blanking plate
- Fit new 30PSI fuel pressure sensor (for PWM control of fuel pressure).
Day 3 – sort of done.
Day 6 – fitted barbs and 30PSI sensor using Loctite 567 Thread Sealant.
- Fit new injector to throttle body.
Day 1 – done.
Day 2 – removed it to make sure bottom ‘O’ ring was sealing, had problems with this in the past causing erratic fuelling as it was dribbling all the time. I’ll perform a leak test when I get fuel pressure up.
- Fit new solid state relays (SSR) for PWM control of injection fuel pump and radiator electric fan
- Clean and paint corner of bulkhead where brake fluid has removed paint and caused surface rust.
Day 2 – have obtained correct ‘Indigo’ blue paint in a can.
Day 5 – removed Brake master cylinder so as to gain access to damaged paint. Wire wheeled and sanded area and treated it to rust converter.
Day 6 – seam sealed, primed, sanded and top coated with Indigo blue acrylic paint. Done.
- Finish fitting new Bluetooth radio.
Day 1 – done.
Day 2 – played many tunes on it today!
- Fit new relay and fuse block,
Day 6 – will locate fuse/relay block over the black plate in above picture using alloy spacers so as to allow access for wiring loom. I will also be getting rid of the original 2 fuse (30A each!) block and using individual circuit fuses along with relays for some of the high current items e.g. lights etc.
Wiring loom will come through firewall near black plate using 1 or 2 cable glands. I’m not sure yet on number, my thoughts being to separate high current/noisy wires from the low current and analogue signals. Will it make any difference?
- Wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors
Day 7 Created new wiring harness for the two D-Sub 37 pin ECU connectors. I used two pre-made cables that I obtained from DIYAutoTune previously. I removed all of the wires from the MS3 connector not relevant to my installation using an extractor tool, but for some reason the tool would not remove the pins from the MS3X connector. So I cut the unneeded wires on this connector a few inches away, so that if I need them in the future I can join them up easily.
I used the following self-closing braided wire wrap as I believe it offers superior protection and functionality to the loom tubing as originally supplied by DIYAutoTune. It comes in various sizes as well as fully enclosed and split versions
All of the wires I will feed through a bulkhead cable gland and then to the end destination.
- Fit MS to bottom of dash rail using nut inserts (more secure).
Day 6 – have looked into this, and will use 3 4mm allen cap head screws into 3 4mm nut inserts into dash panel tray on right side of car. Can only fit 3 fastners, as there is a great big hole where the right one would go, plus the screw head is partly obscured by the DB37 connectors.
- Test and set-up PWM for both fuel pump and radiator fan control
- Need to adjust tappets, as I have re-torqued the cylinder head.
- Fit new windscreen washer bag to hang under the R/H fender and connect it up
- Relocate power brake booster backwards by ~ 2″ to allow for a cold air/filter box to feed the MAF sensor that will be fitted at a later date.
Day 2 – removed, waiting for me to make new 3/16″ pipes and new brackets.
Day 5 – not happy with the VH44 brake booster, so have ordered a MK3 Cooper ‘S’ booster, should be here by the end of the week.
Day 6 – booster has arrived along with new brake master cylinder.
- Replace the Cooper ‘S’ discs and pads.
Day 4 – removed discs and ultrasonic cleaned callipers.
- Replace with new and paint both L/H & R/H top suspension arms.
Day 1 – 1 done.
Day 2 – done.
- Replace rear competition bump stops with standard bump stops.
Day 1 – done
- Check rear wheel brake cylinders for leaks and also that they are 5/8″ bore.
Day 1 – found one cylinder seized, replaced both sides, as well as brake shoe springs and adjusters.
- Fit new brake hoses.
Day 1 – 1/2 done.
Day 5 – removed R/H/F hose… what a PITA that was… Hamish swore at me and said I should get an American car as they are easier to work on!
- Fit the new heater.
Day 2 – bench tested to make sure it works… it does
- Fit the new boot brackets and make a boot board to fit on top of these brackets.
Day 2 – bought marine ply and carpet to make it. Also trial fitted brackets.
Day 4 – brackets painted car colour (indigo) and made cardboard pattern of required boot board size and transferred this to 12mm ply and cut-out with jigsaw. Fits like a finger up a b**.
- Get wheel balance and alignment
- Day 2 – fitted new roof mount aerial… what a PITA! Done
- Day 2 – continued to feed my ultrasonic cleaner various greasy/dirty bits… ongoing
- Day 4 – fitted new black accelerator cable, so as to get rid of crappy yellow one
- Day 4 – I couldn’t sell the NGK spark plug leads so I obtained some genuine NGK 90 degree plug ends and fitted them to the shortened NGK leads. Looks a lot better as leads are closer to engine.
Day 5 – obtained new BPR6ES NGK plugs and fitted them.
- Day 5 – discovered that brake master cylinder was a little weepy, they cost so little, so I ordered a new one instead of fitting a kit.
Day 6 – fitted new brake master cylinder. Need to do the pivot pin and its split pin though!
- Day 6 – painted one of the front disk callipers a nice bright red… I used old pistons, top seals, inlet pipe and a set bolt to fill/cover all important openings from the paint.