Slightly more progress

With Hamish helping, we have managed to get the following done in the list on Saturday. I’ll have more to report on Tuesday and Wednesday. I will also update the MegaSquirt Bluetooth section, to overcome a problem where you can’t use the USB on a MS3  unit with the Bluetooth mods incorporated.

Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Day 5

  • Remove existing MegaSquirt relay board, and existing wiring for EFI sensors Done
  • Fit EFI fuel filter under the car and connect hoses Done, removed and painted the filter housing as it was crappy Refitted all done
  • Remove standard engine driven fuel pump and fit blanking plate
  • Fit new 30PSI fuel pressure sensor (for PWM control of fuel pressure) Sort of done
  • Fit new injector to throttle body Done. Removed it to make sure bottom ‘O’ ring was sealing, had problems with this in the past causing erratic fuelling as it was dribbling all the time. I’ll perform a leak test when I get fuel pressure up.
  • Fit new solid state relays (SSR) for PWM control of injection fuel pump and radiator electric fan
  • Clean and paint corner of bulkhead where brake fluid has removed paint and caused surface rust. Have obtained correct ‘Indigo’ blue paint in a can. Removed Brake master cylinder so as to gain access to damaged paint. Wire wheeled and sanded area and treated it to rust converter.
  • Finish fitting new Bluetooth radio Done. Played many tunes on it today!
  • Fit new relay and fuse block,
  • Wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors
  • Fit MS to bottom of dash rail using nut inserts (more secure)
  • Test and set-up PWM for both fuel pump and radiator fan control
  • Fit new windscreen washer bag to hang under the R/H fender and connect it up
  • Relocate power brake booster backwards by ~ 2″ to allow for a cold air/filter box to feed the MAF sensor that will be fitted at a later date. Removed, waiting for me to make new 3/16″ pipes and new brackets. Not happy with the VH44 brake booster, so have ordered a MK3 Cooper ‘S’ booster, should be here by the end of the week.
  • Replace the Cooper ‘S’ discs and pads Removed discs and ultrasonic cleaned calipers
  • Replace with new and paint both L/H & R/H top suspension arms 1 done 2 done
  • Replace rear competition bump stops with standard bump stops Done
  • Check rear wheel brake cylinders for leaks and also that they are 5/8″ bore. Found one cylinder seized, replaced both sides, as well as brake shoe springs and adjusters.
  • Fit new brake hoses. 1/2 done Removed R/H/F hose… what a PITA that was… Hamish swore at me and said I should get an American car as they are easier to work on!
  • Fit the new heater Bench tested to make sure it works… it does
  • Fit the new boot brackets and make a boot board to fit on top of these brackets Bought marine ply and carpet to make it. Also trial fitted brackets. Brackets painted car colour (indigo) and made cardboard pattern of required boot board size and transferred this to 12mm ply and cut-out with jigsaw. Fits like a finger up a b**.
  • Get wheel balance and alignment
  • Fitted new roof mount aerial… what a PITA!
  • Continued to feed my ultrasonic cleaner various greasy/dirty bits
  • Fitted new black accelerator cable, so as to get rid of crappy yellow one
  • I couldn’t sell the NGK spark plug leads so I obtained some genuine NGK 90 degree plug ends and fitted them  to the shortened NGK leads. Looks a lot better as leads are closer to engine. Obtained new NGK plugs.
  • Discovered that brake master cylinder was a little weepy, they cost so little, so I ordered a new one instead of fitting a kit.

2 Replies to “Slightly more progress”

  1. Hi James,

    Over at Megasquirt forum a while back we talked about the pwm control of the fuel pump. I see that you mention it on your website. Did you get it working ?

    Thanks

    Yves

  2. Hi Yves,

    I’m currently wiring the car, but I’ve had the EFI PWM running on the bench. Another user in the US also contacted me yesterday to enquire on progress and to ask how I’ve wired the SSR and fuel pump, so I’ll add my reply here with some addition info to clarify, so all can see it. Obviously I have not powered up the car with this yet but it should be a goer.

    I’m sorry for the delays, but I have to have the car going by early September as I’m taking it on a 2000km road trip with my son.

    Jim

    Ok here goes:
    Firstly my fuel pump is in the tank, and it's -ve lead is hardwired to earthed (-ve earthed), hence I have to control the positive side (high side switching).
    Secondly after benchtesting last week, I found to use the fuel and pressure settings without having to invert the FP O/P settings the following worked for me:

    1. The -ve SSR O/P is connected to the positive on the fuel pump
    2. The +ve SSR O/P is connected to the cars +12V (preferable through fuse!)
    3. The -ve SSR I/P is connected to the MS3 FP pin
    4. The +ve SSR I/P is connected to +5V
    5. A diode (I used a 1N4007) should be connected across the motor terminals, or as close as possible, to 'snub' the back EMF. The cathode (stripe) end connected to the -ve side of motor.

    If you want to control the -ve end instead of the +ve end of motor, then the motors positive should be connected to +12v fused, and the +ve O/P of SSR to the -ve end of motor and the -ve O/P of SSR goes to earth (-12V).

    I think that's it.

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