The Brakes are a Braking

Just a little update for today. I spent most of the day cleaning the garage and whilst there I put the Peugeot on charge, as I will start looking at it shortly.

I had time this arvo to adjust the rear brakes on the Mini; the L/H drum was the worse. I also removed the ATF fluid from the SU damper using a piece of clear plastic tubing as a pipette. Don’t use non-clear tubing for obvious reasons! I then filled it up with 20-40W motor oil.

I haven’t had time to look at the Smiths instrument voltage regulator yet, maybe tomorrow. I’ll also road test for the flat spot in the carb as well as the brakes.

Mini and Pug back in garage after garage clean up
Mini and Pug back in garage after garage clean up

Done

  • Adjusted rear brakes.
  • replaced SU damper oil with 20-40W motor oil.

To Do

  • Find out why instrument regulator is not working yet again!
  • Enjoy car!

Nice to do, but not required!

  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

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On the road again!

Just a quick update on the Mini’s progress. The car is now up and running quite well with some exceptions.

It loses fuel going around right hand corners, especially when hammering it! This is because on the refitted original tank, someone previously has damaged the sealing face that the cap tries to seal against. I used to have a ‘Monza’ style cap that  seals against it’s own neck. Problem is I managed to break this when I tried to remove it from the fuel injection tank used previously. Solution is I’ve ordered a new one, should have it in two days or so.

The brakes seem to need a constant double pump to make them ‘work’, hopefully it’s just the back brakes and front ones bedding in. I’ll re-check the adjustment of the back ones tomorrow.

There is a great big flat spot when accelerating of idle. I’t seems fine if I floor it, but hesitates and has a lot of induction noise, but not much go if I tread lightly on the gas. I’ll check the mixture as I still have the wideband O2 sensor installed, and maybe thicken up the oil in the SU damper, to give a richer mixture when accelerating. I currently have ATF in there, prior to that I had 3-in-1 oil which I believe is 20 SAE, the same as original specced ‘SU oil’. I’ll also re-visit the ignition advance curve, not that I can do much for it at the moment.

Looked at the Smiths instrument voltage regulator as I previously mentioned was not working, and found that it had a blown transistor in it. This is a later style regulator, not like the mechanical ones of past. It has a very simple circuit of a resistor and zener diode feeding the base of a FZT600 NPN Darlington transistor. The emitter feeds the fuel and temperature gauges. I ordered 5 new FZT600 Darlington transistors, 4 for the spares box. Long story short, is it worked for a while, but when I went for a drive I noticed it had stopped working yet again. Maybe I have an intermittent short, time will tell?

Done

  • Replaced FTZ600 NPN transistor in instrument voltage regulator, worked for a while!
  • Put sound deadening (Dynamat Extreme) on inside of firewall after using a hot air gun and stripper tool to remove previous owners ‘liquid nails’ and rubber foam crap. Has quietened down engine noise noticeably.
  • Wired up the Smiths tacho, works a treat.
  • Took it for a drive, and let a friend drive it for the first time.

To Do

Nice to do, but not required!

  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

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It Friken Lives Again!

Jeez I’m getting sick of working on this car! Anyway got it going (see the Done section below) just in time to take it over to my sons place some 42 km’s away to share pizza with him.

I have not completely finished it, in fact I still haven’t installed the under bonnet firewall sound deadening and also the internal dash cards along with some tidy up required of the wiring.

It drives very well, but the advance curve is not right, and I think it’s running a bit lean… I didn’t have time to adjust the mixture. The car sits better at the rear, the hydrolastic has evened out a bit better since I put a couple of washers in the front.

Very happy it’s back on the road though. Now to start looking at the Peugeot 306’s automatic transmission.

Done

  • Removed blanking plate and installed mechanical fuel pump
  • Removed Rover SPI fuel tank and wiring, installed smaller Morris tank
  • Removed EFI filter from rear sub-frame
  • Installed Davies Craig thermatic fan controller as previously the fan was controlled via the MegaSquirt
  • Replaced a rear exhaust hanger and discovered that the previous company that had installed the exhaust system had done up the system under tension and all of the hangars were damaged (rubber breaking away from the steel). Fixed this after a lot of swearing.
  • Bleed the brakes again
  • Installed the HIF44 SU with new gaskets and connect accelerator and choke cables
  • Installed the Lucas 65dm4 electronic distributor and ignition coil and set distributor to roughly 8 degrees BTDC
  • Installed fuel pipes for fuel tank and carburetor along with a fuel filter
  • Filled radiator
  • Prayed
  • Turned ignition and it started once the fuel primed up
  • Set the timing so that I had no more than 32 degrees BTDC… this distributor’s advance curve is way wrong for this engine… so stay put for future developments on this matter
  • Drove it 42 km’s to my sons house, no problems! Hopefully return leg will be also!

Edit: It made it back!

To Do

  • Find out why both the fuel and temperature gauges are not working… most probably the +12v to the instrument regulator is missing
  • Adjust rear brakes and try to bed in the brakes
  • Put back the sound deadening on both sides of the firewall… it’s deafening without it!
  • Wire up the tachometer again
  • Enjoy car!

Nice to do, but not required!

  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

If you would like to leave a comment (please do) , click the Leave a Reply link below.

Lets do the Bump on the rear!

Today I removed the rear, very dented by the previous owner (honestly), chrome bumper and fitted the new stainless steel bumper complete with over-riders and nerf (corner) bars.

I also adjusted the rear brakes, before bleeding all 4 brakes, starting from the L/H rear then R/H rear and on the front the L/H then finishing with the R/H. I used the Gunson Eezibleed kit and used my spare tire to provide the pressure to bleed (max 20 PSI). Of course the spare tire was flat, the 12V electric pump had a broken wire, and my digital tyre gauge has mysteriously disappeared. Go figure! Anyway, fixed the pump and I must say if you have to bleed the brakes/clutch then this system works well. Only down side is the supplied caps don’t fit my clutch master cylinder. I’m not overly concerned, as down the track I’ll replace it and the slave cylinder.

Done

  • Fitted rear bumper bar. Assembly like the front, was a breeze and the bumpers appear to fit better than old ones.
  • Adjusted rear brakes
  • Bled brakes using the Gunson Eezibleed kit.

Some pictures for you.

Original bumper
Original bumper
Rear SS bumper with nerf bars
Rear SS bumper with nerf bars

To Do

  • Continue to wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors.
  • Test and set-up PWM for radiator fan control
  • Check timing and adjust the index position using TunerStudio to give the base timing value.
  • Adjust VE table to get it running OK
  • Take it for a drive to dial in VE table using TunerStudio’s VEAL.
  • Use and enjoy it!

Nice to do, but not required!

  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

If you would like to leave a comment (please do) , click the Leave a Reply link below.

Lets do the Bump!

Had an hour to kill before going to work today, so removed front (dented) chrome bumper, and fitted new stainless steel bumper complete with over-riders and nerf (corner) bars.

Done

  • Fitted front bumper bar. Assembly was a breeze and the bumpers appear to fit better than old ones, which I suspect were cheap pattern ones.

Some pictures for you.

Old dented chrome over steel bumpers.
Old dented chrome over steel bumpers.
New SS front bumper with over-riders and nerf bars.
New SS front bumper with over-riders and nerf bars.

To Do

  • Fit new rear stainless steel bumper, I have done the front. The chrome ones on the car are peeling and fit badly, plus I prefer the MkI Cooper ‘S’ period look.
  • Continue to wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors.
  • Test and set-up PWM for radiator fan control
  • Re-bleed all 4 brakes since the Gunson Eezibleed kit  has arrived. This tool uses the air pressure from a tyre to force the brake fluid and air out. I will keep you posted as to how it actually performs.
  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Check timing and adjust the index position using TunerStudio to give the base timing value.
  • Adjust VE table to get it running OK
  • Take it for a drive to dial in VE table using TunerStudio’s VEAL.
  • Check that it runs!
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

If you would like to leave a comment (please do) , click the Leave a Reply link above.