Didn’t achieve as much as I wanted to today…. nothing unusual there!
Firstly I re-arranged my workshop so as to fit both my recent acquisition the Peugeot 306 and also the Mini in it, this involved moving the work bench to rear and and getting some of the clutter from the sides stored away.
I washed the Mini as it was really dirty and was bugging me a lot.
I then adjusted the tappets to 0.015″ (normally 0.012″ but I have 1.5 high ratio rockers). All were tight which was to be expected as I had further compressed the head gasket, except for one, as I have re-torqued the cylinder head. Hopefully the tappets will be a bit quieter, especially the loose one.
I then gapped some new NGK BPR6ES spark plugs to 1 mm (0.039″). Normal specification is for 0.025″, but the wasted spark coils run high voltage and work better at slightly wider settings.
The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) rubber tube installed a few years ago was starting to go hard, so I replaced it along with a proper rubber grommet through the firewall into the cabin to mate up with the MegaSquirt ECU.
Some pictures for you.
Continue to wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors.
Fit MS to bottom of dash rail using nut inserts (more secure).
Test and set-up PWM for radiator fan control
Relocate new power brake booster backwards by ~ 2″ to allow for a cold air/filter box to feed the MAF sensor that will be fitted at a later date. Doesn’t sound much 2″ but we are talking about a mini’s engine bay, there is not much room!
Bleed all brakes as all 4 corners have been drained.
Fit the new heater.
Fit the new rear boot brackets (front ones done) and remake a boot board to fit on top of these brackets and also to wrap around the front of the tank.
Check timing and adjust the index position using TunerStudio to give the base timing value.
Adjust VE table to get it running OK
Take it for a drive to dial in VE table using TunerStudio’s VEAL.
Check that it runs!
Get a wheel balance and alignment.
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Today I finally had time to make a bracket to mount to the bracket that previously held the Ford wasted spark coil, and also to terminate some Bosch spark plug leads that I had left over from the previous install with the new purchased LS1 coil tower connectors.
I used Rivet Nuts and the mounting plate was 3 mm aluminium plate. If I had a MIG welder and knew how to weld, I would have just filled in the rectangular hole and used some Rivet Nuts to locate the coil.
I made three spacers out of aluminium 1/2″ thin wall tube. I wanted to have the base of the coil just off the mounting plate, I did not want any stress on the bottom of the coil.
Picture below shows (out of focus I know) a coil tower with the pin in the middle that the LS1 terminals clip on to.
I painted it all gloss black enamel.
I terminated the spark plug leads with the LS1 coil tower connectors. Done!
Whew, not a perfect job, I’m not the best at fabrication but it will do!
I’m going to update my current Ford wasted spark to a VAG coil (P/No. 032905106B). The reasons are as follows:
I’ve always been concerned about the current spikes possibly affecting the MS ECU as the drivers are locate within the ECU box and the cables run along with low voltage analog and logic cables. This new coil is a logic driven wasted spark coil, thus it will only have logic level wires (2 off) coming fro the MS ECU and will greatly reduce large current spikes upsetting the A/D converters etc.
Since I don’t need to drive the coil with high current, this means that I can remove the two driver transistors and also free up a spare pin on the MS3 board… I’ve already done this!
The existing coil is located in a spot that will ultimately be used for the MAF sensor and the air cleaner. I intend to relocate the new coil up next to the alternator closer to the cylinder head.
One reservation I have is I ordered a third party part… time will tell if it’s up to the job. Has anyone else had experience with these coils?