Lift off?

Today I managed to complete the wiring and get the engine started. I’ll let you read further in the Done section to get the gist of my troubles.

I’m dissapointed that the car is not mobile, as I promised my son Hamish that he could drive it to a car event tomorrow.

As Malcolm Fraser once said “Life wasn’t meant to be easy”.

Done

  • Completed all the sensor wiring and Mini electrics.
  • Tested Mini electrics, lights indicators etc.
  • Tested MegaSquirt connectivity to all sensors and peripherals e.g. fuel pump, radiator fan…
  • Adjusted VR sensor to get it to trigger properly. Discovered it was out of phase, so adjusted the “Ignition Input Capture” value from “Rising edge” to “Falling Edge”. I used the TunerStudio “Tooth Logger” which showed two long bars instead of one long bar when it passed the missing tooth. This indicated that the phase was out. I also adjusted the position, of the VR sensor a little further away from the trigger wheel.
  • Checked and tried to adjust the fuel pump pressure using the FP test O/P in TunerStudio and the Fuel regulator. Fuel pump was making a right racket, much louder than the original SPI pump, and the return hose in the boot (trunk) was banging back and forth. I haven’t fully come to a conclusion, but I think the pump (a MPI/SPI replacement from Mini Spares) is a 255L/Hr 3Bar whereas the original OEM SPI pump I replaced was a 1Bar unit, flow rate unknown, but obviously less.
    I ultimately adjusted the regulator to ~ 12PSI, the gauge in TS was jumping around a bit… maybe +- 0.75PSI or more. Never had this problem with the original pump! My theory is that setting it to 12PSI which is 30PSI or so less than the MPI setting, the flow rate is overpowering the FP regulator causing it to fluctuate.
    I wired up the Main and FP SSR’s using the DIYAutotune wiring diagram. This allows the FP to be used both as in a ON/OFF and PWM mode without any wiring changes. So I might try bypassing the FP regulator and use  the ‘T’ piece with the FP pressure sensor, I have nothing to loose, and this was my original intent to use PWM to effect a returnless fuel system.
    Any ideas folks?
  • Noticed the Knock Sensor gauge was running around 60% when car was idling (surging more like it). I will turn this off until I get a stable idle and tune. Good to know though that it’s sensing something!
  • Started engine and got it to run sort of. It was running lean and hunting, pretty badly.
    I’ve abandoned trying to get it to idle, until I get the FP sorted. One interesting thing I tried to get it to run better was to change the injector flow rate from 622cc/min @ 12PSI to 400cc/min which equates to running the injector @ 5PSI. This richened it up a bit, but still had hunting. I’m confused; the injector is a brand new one, but could they have supplied an incorrect or badly flowing one?

    My Air Fuel and Volumetric Efficiency tables are pretty much as per my original tune, so why the lean running?

Eddie my dog, in his usual repose!
Eddie my best mate, in his usual repose!

To Do

  • Find a solution for fuel pump pressure regulation (maybe PWM) and flow.
  • Test injector flow rate, and check P/No is correct.
  • Test and set-up PWM for radiator fan control
  • Check timing and adjust the index position using TunerStudio to give the base timing value.
  • Adjust VE table to get it running OK
  • Take it for a drive to dial in VE table using TunerStudio’s VEAL.
  • Use and enjoy it!

Nice to do, but not required!

  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

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One sleep to lift off?

Today I remembered that I had not connected the fuel pipes to the fuel regulator that’s fitted to the bulkhead. I had to put the front up on stands so that I could gain access to the fuel inlet pipe (5/16″) and its clamp. Whilst there I discovered another oil leak source coming from the rod change going into the gearbox. I must have been aware of this previously as I found a repair kit in my box of spares. Guess I’m becoming forgetful!

Another item that I fixed whilst I had it up on stands, was to replace a set screw that had fallen out that held the exhaust pipe to the gearbox. I used a spring washer as well as Loctite to keep it there.

Done

  • Fitted both return (1/4″) and inlet lines (5/16″) to fuel regulator using EFI rated fuel hose.
  • Fitted a bolt to exhaust bracket that had gone missing in action. Used Loctite to hopefully stop it going AWOL.
  • Routed and extended electric radiator fan wires.
  • Started looming the wires from the front of the engine into a loom tube.
  • Ran a new heavy gauge wire to the rear of car for the electric fuel pump in the tank that’s in the boot. I connected a 6A 700V Fast Recovery Diode across the connector terminals as a ‘snubber’. This will protect the SSR from back EMF and hence minimise noise on the +12v rail. The cathode (striped end) is connected to more positive rail, in this case the +12V feed from the SSR.
  • Fitted the fully charged battery to the boot.
  • Put some petrol in tank.
  • Temporarily energised the fuel pump so that I could check that I had no leaks, which I happy to say I don’t.

Sorry no pictures today.

To Do

  • Continue to wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors.
  • Test and set-up PWM for radiator fan control
  • Check timing and adjust the index position using TunerStudio to give the base timing value.
  • Adjust VE table to get it running OK
  • Take it for a drive to dial in VE table using TunerStudio’s VEAL.
  • Use and enjoy it!

Nice to do, but not required!

  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

If you would like to leave a comment (please do) , click the Leave a Reply link below.

Lets do the Bump on the rear!

Today I removed the rear, very dented by the previous owner (honestly), chrome bumper and fitted the new stainless steel bumper complete with over-riders and nerf (corner) bars.

I also adjusted the rear brakes, before bleeding all 4 brakes, starting from the L/H rear then R/H rear and on the front the L/H then finishing with the R/H. I used the Gunson Eezibleed kit and used my spare tire to provide the pressure to bleed (max 20 PSI). Of course the spare tire was flat, the 12V electric pump had a broken wire, and my digital tyre gauge has mysteriously disappeared. Go figure! Anyway, fixed the pump and I must say if you have to bleed the brakes/clutch then this system works well. Only down side is the supplied caps don’t fit my clutch master cylinder. I’m not overly concerned, as down the track I’ll replace it and the slave cylinder.

Done

  • Fitted rear bumper bar. Assembly like the front, was a breeze and the bumpers appear to fit better than old ones.
  • Adjusted rear brakes
  • Bled brakes using the Gunson Eezibleed kit.

Some pictures for you.

Original bumper
Original bumper
Rear SS bumper with nerf bars
Rear SS bumper with nerf bars

To Do

  • Continue to wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors.
  • Test and set-up PWM for radiator fan control
  • Check timing and adjust the index position using TunerStudio to give the base timing value.
  • Adjust VE table to get it running OK
  • Take it for a drive to dial in VE table using TunerStudio’s VEAL.
  • Use and enjoy it!

Nice to do, but not required!

  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

If you would like to leave a comment (please do) , click the Leave a Reply link below.

Have Brakes!

Taken a while to report, but all things good come to those who wait!

Done

  • Fitted a new Lockheed brake booster as fitted to the last of the MkIII Cooper S’s. I fitted nut inserts to the brackets that I also purchased, so that the bolts inserted from the wheel well, making it easier to remove in the future.
  • Fitted new vacuum hose with a new in-line one way valve. I also made a small loop for any fuel to collect in the hose, rather than going into the booster and perishing it.
  • I also had to make two new brake pipes to suit the inlet and outlets of the booster. Had never done this before but, I found it quite easy to do once I found out how to use the pipe flare tool. These pipes used just a simple bubble type flare, but I also made a double flare just because I wanted to see how to. I bent the pipes so that they kept a path free for the MAF pipes that I hope to do soon.
  • Being by my self today, it was a little harder to bleed the brakes, but in the end I got a reasonable hard pedal. I’ll bleed them further next week, when my Gunson Eezibleed kit arrives.
  • I also took some time to fill all the many holes previous owners have drilled in the inner fender, (looks like a colander), and bulkhead with grommets.
  • The windscreen washer bag that I purchased on Ebay and fitted previously, decided to become incontinent. It burst at the welded seam. So I scrubbed the old one to get rid of years of grime and it came up reasonably OK so it’s now fitted back in front of the new brake booster. I once again used nut inserts to hold it in place.

Some pictures for you.

Lockheed Cooper 'S' MkIII brake booster
Lockheed Cooper ‘S’ MkIII brake booster
Brake booster with nut inserts on brackets
Brake booster with nut inserts on brackets
Bumpers with over riders and nerf bars
Bumpers with over riders and nerf bars
Windscreen washer bottle
Windscreen washer bottle (note: wire that has pulled out of coil connector!)

 

To Do

  • Fit new front and rear stainless steel bumpers complete with over riders and nerf bars. The chrome ones on the car are peeling and fit badly, plus I prefer the MkI Cooper ‘S’ period look.
  • Continue to wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors.
  • Test and set-up PWM for radiator fan control
  • Re-bleed all 4 brakes when as all 4 corners Gunson Eezibleed kit arrives.
  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Check timing and adjust the index position using TunerStudio to give the base timing value.
  • Adjust VE table to get it running OK
  • Take it for a drive to dial in VE table using TunerStudio’s VEAL.
  • Check that it runs!
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

If you would like to leave a comment (please do) , click the Leave a Reply link above.

Seats in!

Haven’t finished for to day but will publish what I have done today.

Done

  • Fitted MS to bottom of dash rail using nut inserts. I actually put the nut inserts on the MS’s flange. This makes it easy to install and remove from under the drivers side dashboard tray.
  • I purchased and installed a new earth strap as the current one looked like a dog had been chewing it. It’s important to have good earths, more so with ECU’s  as any voltage drop can lower the voltage to the point where the ECU doesn’t work for example when cranking.
  • I cleaned the windscreen squirter’s and replaced all of the tubing back to the new washer bag I have installed previously.
  • I found that the previous MAP tubing was hardened at the manifold end, so I purchased some new 2.8 mm rubber tube and replaced it and routed it through the firewall using a grommet.
  • The Cobra recliner seats were refitted, with new bolts.

Some pictures for you.

MS fitted with nut insert note I coloured them with black indelible texta
MS fitted with nut insert note I coloured them with black indelible texta
Original braided earth strap
Original braided earth strap
New earth strap.
New earth strap.

To Do

  • Continue to wire new EFI harnesses to relay/fuse blocks and to sensors.
  • Test and set-up PWM for radiator fan control
  • Relocate new power brake booster backwards by ~ 2″ to allow for a cold air/filter box to feed the MAF sensor that will be fitted at a later date. Doesn’t sound much 2″ but we are talking about a mini’s engine bay, there is not much room!
  • Bleed all brakes as all 4 corners have been drained.
  • Fit the new heater. (Not doing until I have car on the road and tuned in… it is summer after all!)
  • Fit the new rear boot brackets (front ones done) and remake a boot board to fit on top of these brackets and also to wrap around the front of the tank.
  • Check timing and adjust the index position using TunerStudio to give the base timing value.
  • Adjust VE table to get it running OK
  • Take it for a drive to dial in VE table using TunerStudio’s VEAL.
  • Check that it runs!
  • Get a wheel balance and alignment.

If you would like to leave a comment (please do) , click the Leave a Reply link above.