First Long Drive

Drive to Hanging Rock Classic Car Show

Today I:

Got up really early (for me anyway) to get ready for trip to the classic car show at Hanging Rock. Car started from cold on first turn, always a good thing! I turned on the data logging and “Auto Tune” for both the drive there and back, which I will study tonight;
Lots of cars there, even Gogomobile’s and Hillman Imps including a Husky.

Caught up with David (fatboydave), Scott (poeee), Noel (?), Shawn (?), Josh (miniimports), and others from the AusMini forum.

Most had a look and discussion of my conversion… thanks everyone for your interest and kind comments. The car is going better since it’s had a couple hundred Km’s under its belt using the Auto Tune function of TunerStudio. It’s now where near perfect, but it handled the drive, from crawling at a snails pace to 110Kmh on the Calder Highway. I think I have a small problem with the wideband O2 sensor; seems to show very lean readings straight after any moderate increase in MAP readings I.e straight after accelerating it leans out then comes good again. It might just be lack of acceleration enrichment, I’ll have to investigate further.

Tomorrow

Make a bracket to fit the AIC (air idle control) valve, and plumb in the valve and connect it up to the MS; this will provide warm up control, I’m not sure though, whether it provides idle control.

 

The first Start on Full EFI!

Day 10

Today I:

  • Put fuel in tank!;
  • Wired the fuel pump wire to the relay panel;
  • Refitted the MegaSquirt;
  • Turned on ignition and checked for:
  • Fuel pump working… Yes;
  • Clamped fuel inlet to carb, so that pressure does not overwhelm it
  • Fuel leaks… None, pressure stays up for a long time!;
  • Adjust for 3PSI… Wouldn’t go to 3PSI, 5PSI seems to be the minimum;
  • Take off clamp, checked that the SU didn’t flood with the 5PSI pressure, it didn’t.
  • Start the car, it started;
  • Ran the two injector wires in a separate loom, located away from the other sensors, and especially the VR ignition wires;
  • Removed the SU’s bell and needle;
  • Fitted the SU adaptor;
  • Wired the injector;
  • Re-adjust fuel PSI up to 10PSI (injector is rated 56lb/hr. @ 10.15 PSI (70Kpa);
  • Started the car… click whirr, whirr… VROOM, VROOM

πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ IT RUNS! πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚

 

Car starts, idles, and accelerates with some hesitation and farting around.

Took it for a 5Km drive whilst monitoring, have to look further into:

  1. AFR at idle frequently hits 25:1… not good, I think it’s the TechEdge WBO2, will check further, maybe it needs another free air calibration again;
  2. Coming to a stop the car nearly dies, have to give it a real lot of throttle to clear it. Might be associated with #1;
  3. Acceleration enrichment is not right, needs more. Engine feels a bit like when you have no oil in the SU damper, I.e. gives a stumble when the accelerator is floored then finally takes off right to the red line.

If I can get the idle AFR and acceleration enrichment fixed, I think I will be able to take it to the Hanging Rock show.

Update

Did some tuning of the VE table around the idle point, and also some ignition stuff. Car now is idling much better. Took it for a drive to the petrol station and around Werribee. I turned on the TunerStudio Auto Tune function which alters the VE (volumetric efficiency) for a given RPM and MAP point. It tries to alter the VE value so the AFR matches the target AFR for the same RPM and MAP point. Guess what, it works!

At the moment there is a slight hesitation just of idle, but it’s early days yet. One thing I have noticed is there seems to be very strong torque down low, for example pulling away from 30Kmh in third gear is very smooth.

Will take the car to pick up number one son from his Mum’s tomorrow, this will give the Auto Tune function a wider variety of loads/RPM’s.

Running of Fuel Lines

Day 9

Today I:

Firstly I found the choke clip that I thought I’d lost, sitting smugly on the diff housing. I also found the mechanical fuel pump blanking plate sitting upstairs on my electronics workbench.

Rolled out the 5/16″ bundy tubing and spent some time rolling around under the car measuring, re-measuring then bending and then more bending. Thanks Mick for the loan of the tube bender gizmo! I managed to get it to roughly follow the existing fuel lines with the exception of not going between the subframe and the rear bulkhead. Same for the front. I secured the main run with bundy tubing clips.

Here is a view from the rear of the bundy tube run. Excuse the oily look, it’s from my previous engine… guess the floor wont rust.

I removed the Ryco Z578 EFI filter and fitted a Ryco Z200 EFI filter, as Andrew (afh001) pointed out that the Z578 uses a quick connect system, and I needed 5/16″ barbs.

Here is a picture showing the Z200 mounted in the Rover filter bracket. Excuse the blur, I had the shakes… low sugar levels I think.

Mounted the fuel regulator with a bolt through the bulkhead. Remounted the HIF44 and the modified air cleaner/throttle bracket with new gaskets. Fitted the needle and bell housing. Connected the SU to the fuel regulator.

Here is the fuel mounted regulator. Once again blurry… sorry.

You might be wondering why I have re-connected the SU, and not the EFI SU adaptor; I want to start the car and make sure I can set the fuel pressure down to ~3PSI so if any problem happens with the EFI fuelling side, I can simply just plonk the bell housing along with the needle adjust down the pressure, and away I go. Also I have updated the firmware in the MegaSquirt so I want to make sure it will start without introducing any further unknowns into the equation.

Tomorrows list of things to do:

  • Put at least 5L fuel in tank!;
  • Wire the fuel pump wire to the relay panel;
  • Refit the MegaSquirt;
  • Turn on ignition and check for:
  • Fuel pump working;
  • Fuel leaks;
  • Adjust for 3PSI.
  • Start the car;
  • Adjust base timing of MegaSquirt… I’ve been naughty, should have done this when I first got the MS going.
  • Run the two injector wires in a separate loom, located away from the other sensors, and especially the VR ignition wires;
  • Remove the SU’s bell and needle;
  • Fit theΒ SU adaptor;
  • Wire the injector;
  • Re-adjust fuel PSI up to 12PSI;
  • Start the car… hopefully!

I’m really pushing the time envelope, as I’m hoping to drive this to the car show at Hanging Rock this coming Sunday. Worst case scenario is if I cant get it running on the EFI, I’ll revert back to fueling it from the SU… that’s the plan anyway.

 

Rover EFI Fuel Filter

Day 8

Today I:

  • Decided to use a Ryco Z578 EFI filter in the Rover filter bracket. The reason for this is I couldn’t locate anyone within the local area that could sell me the correct sized inverted flare tube nuts. The Z578 comes with 5/16″ tails and it fits in the Rover clamp also, done deal!Here it is before fitting to sub frame and here it is mounted on sub frame. Had to drill an extra hole (6.5mm diam) towards the rear.
  • Started to mount the fuel regulator in engine bay bulkhead;
  • Removed the SU, and in doing so I lost the choke cable spring clip… the next hour crawling under the car and over the garage, still haven’t found it;
  • Modified the air cleaner/throttle bracket so that the fuel hose can exit through it. Will upload a picture to show what I’m on about;
  • Removed the mechanical fuel pump, spacer and studs. Can’t find the blanking plate I bought… will have to have a better look, plus will have to get a couple of 5/16″ UNC bolts for it.

 

Fitting of Fuel Systems

Day 7

Not a lot done just did the following:

  • fitted the new L/H tail-light assembly;
  • fitted the fuel tank;
  • fitted and connected the fuel pump wiring and connector and threaded the wire inside the car… this will connect to the FP relay on the MS relay panel;
  • Fitted new blanking grommets to the two holes in boot, one under the tank the other in tyre well;

I have decided against locating the fuel regulator in the boot and mounting it in the engine bay near the L/H engine mount. This will require me to run some 5/16″ bundy tube and clamp it with a few bundy clips along the run.

I’ll use the existing 1/4″ fuel line as the return line.

My budget, which went out of the windows ages ago, is very low, so I might have to wait to early next week for more monies to fill the coffers.

Still to be done are:

  • mount the fuel regulator in the engine bay;
  • wire fuel pump to MS Relay Panel;
  • remove mechanical fuel pump and put blanking plate on;
  • run 5/16″ bundy tubing and secure using bundy clips;
  • run rubber EFI hoses as appropriate;
  • put fuel in tank;
  • pressure test system.